Honestly, there is something about pulling on a pair of Yves Saint Laurent thigh high boots that just changes your posture. It’s not just the height—though YSL has never been afraid of a 110mm stiletto—it’s the weight of the history. Most people look at these boots and see a "night out" accessory or something meant for a runway. But if you actually talk to collectors or the people who’ve been buying them since the Hedi Slimane or Anthony Vaccarello eras, they’ll tell you the real story is much more practical. And way more interesting.
The 1963 Revolution Nobody Mentions
Everyone talks about the "Le Smoking" suit. It’s the brand's holy grail. But in 1963, Yves Saint Laurent did something arguably just as radical. He worked with legendary shoemaker Roger Vivier to create what were basically the first "stocking boots."
Before this, tall boots were for pirates, soldiers, or men on horseback. They were clunky. Yves saw them and thought: What if they fit like skin? He made them out of alligator. He made them out of soft suedes. Suddenly, the "cuissarde" wasn't just a utility item; it was a subversion of femininity. It was aggressive. It was chic. This is why when you buy a pair of Niki or Opyum boots today, you aren't just buying footwear. You're buying into a 60-year-old rebellion against "pretty" shoes.
Why the Niki and Opyum Aren't Just Hype
If you’re shopping for Yves Saint Laurent thigh high boots right now, you’re likely stuck between the Niki and the Opyum.
The Niki is the "cool girl" choice. It has that slouchy, "I just threw this on" vibe, even though it costs more than most people's rent. The cone heel is the secret. It’s incredibly stable. You can actually walk in these for more than twenty minutes without wanting to cry. Most luxury boots are built for the "car-to-carpet" lifestyle, but the Niki—specifically the 85mm version—is surprisingly durable. The calfskin is thick. It develops creases over time that actually look good, like a well-worn leather jacket.
Then there’s the Opyum.
This is the one with the YSL monogram heel. It's polarizing. Some think it's "too much" logo-mania, while others see it as a literal piece of architecture. But here’s the thing: that heel is a feat of engineering. To balance a human body on a set of interlocking metal letters requires serious structural integrity. It’s heavy. It’s loud. It’s a statement that you aren't trying to hide the brand you’re wearing.
Spotting the "Too Good To Be True" Pairs
The resale market for YSL is huge. You’ll see "authentic" pairs on Depop or eBay for $400. Be careful. Real Saint Laurent boots use high-grade Italian calfskin or lambskin. If the leather smells like chemicals or feels "plasticky," walk away.
- The Sole: Authentic YSL boots almost always have a leather sole. It should be smooth, with "SAINT LAURENT PARIS" and "MADE IN ITALY" cleanly embossed.
- The Zipper: They use Lampo or YKK zippers, usually, and the movement is butter-smooth. If it snags, it’s a red flag.
- The Lining: They are lined with leather. Period. If you see a fabric lining in a modern Niki thigh-high, it's a fake.
The Reality of the "Thigh-High" Fit
Let's get real for a second. Thigh-high boots are a nightmare to fit.
If you have athletic calves, many of the older Saint Laurent silhouettes won't even zip. The newer versions, like the Julia or the Auteuil, have a bit more "give," but they are still designed with a very specific, slim Parisian aesthetic in mind.
I’ve seen people buy the velvet Ella boots only to realize they slide down every five minutes. Pro tip: if your boots won't stay up, look for the versions with the hidden silicone grip at the top of the shaft. Or, honestly? Wear them over denim. It creates enough friction to keep them in place and kills that "costume" look that people are often afraid of.
Maintenance: Don't Let Them "Puddle"
You just spent $2,000. Don't throw them on the floor of your closet.
Leather has a memory. If you let your Yves Saint Laurent thigh high boots fold over and stay that way, they will develop permanent, ugly cracks in the finish. You need boot shapers. If you don't want to buy fancy ones, use pool noodles. Cut a pool noodle to the length of the shaft and slide it in. It keeps the leather upright and allows air to circulate.
Also, get them top-soled. Leather soles are beautiful, but they vanish after three miles on city pavement. A cobbler can add a thin rubber Topy sole for $30 that will make the boots last a decade.
Actionable Steps for the Aspiring Owner
- Check the "Drop": Before buying, measure from your floor to your mid-thigh. Saint Laurent boots often have a 27 to 30-inch shaft. If you're 5'2", they might end up as "waist-high" boots.
- Size Up: Generally, YSL runs narrow. If you're between sizes, go up a half size, especially in the pointed-toe Niki or Zoe styles.
- The Suede Test: If buying suede, immediately spray them with a carbon-pro protector. Suede is a sponge for rain and spilled drinks.
- Buy Pre-Owned (Wisely): Sites like Fashionphile or The RealReal often have Nikis for 40% off retail because someone bought them and realized they couldn't walk in heels. Their loss is your gain.
Buying these boots is a commitment. They aren't "easy" shoes. They require care, the right outfit, and a certain amount of confidence to pull off without feeling like you're wearing a costume. But once you get the fit right? There is nothing else like them.
